Experiences building a lifting platform

[muddy]

I recently built this lifting platform after moving to a new place with space for a garage gym:



What I learned is probably painfully obvious to someone with more experience with these kinds of projects. If you're thinking of building this platform and don't have a lot of experience with this stuff, maybe you'll find some of the below useful.

I chose this platform without ever having seen it in person. For me, it was critical the platform lessen reverberations (more so than noise) from drops. My garage is on a hill and hence not on solid ground, and the garage flooring is shared with a neighbor's garage. This platform seemed best to lessen reverberations.

The 2x4s called for aren't really 2x4, but measure 1.5"x3.5". I suppose they're just generically called 2x4s. It's confusing, because the store had beams measuring both 2"x4" and 1.5"x3.5". 1.5x3.5 is definitely wanted, otherwise the 5'9" length for the beams doesn't make sense.

On the 5 sheets of plywood called for, you don't really want all five to be a true 3/4" thickness. The top sheet can be, because likely the horse mats are really 3/4" thick (mine are). A nicer grade is good for the top sheet too. I got oak plywood that was a true 3/4" for the top sheet.

For the other 4, a lower grade is fine. There was a 5x cost difference between the top sheet and the lower grade stuff I got. More importantly, I'd recommend a 23/32" thick sheets here, not 3/4". First, it's probably easier to find this thickness in the lower grade stuff. More importantly, the leftover scrap turned into spacers between the 20 1.5x3.5 cross beams in the middle of the platform will fit perfectly.

I did read some Norm Abrams articles on the This Old House site on plywood ratings and all that. It was interesting, but in the end, not terribly important. I picked the bottom 4 sheets by thickness and cost (23/32" and cheap), and the top sheet by looks and thickness (nice and 3/4").

I had Home Depot (where I bought the wood, etc) do all the cuts except the spacers, because I didn't really have a good way to cut big sheets of plywood. Plus, they only charged me $2.00 for all these cuts. (The guy must have been in a good mood, because their sign says the first 2 cuts are free, and every cut after is 25 cents.) The cuts on the plywood are pretty forgiving; however, I wish they'd been a little more exact on the beams. Fortunately, they weren't ever a little too short. But a few things were off just an 1/8" of an inch (or less) here and there. I started touching these up myself, but I wish I'd realized this from the start. A few places in the final platform are just a hair off as a result. It doesn't affect anything, though, other than nag at my anal retentive tendencies.

Also, Home Depot quoted me $80 for delivery. However, they also rent out a truck for $20 for 1.5 hours to those with a license, credit card and proof of insurance. I took the DIY delivery option, and got it done for $20 all in.

Making the double 5'9" beams, the base (what I call the 4'x6' double layering of plywood that makes up the bottom of the platform), and the frame (the 4 sets of double 5'9" beams connected to the two 8' beams) was uneventful and straightforward. I used both glue and screws on the double beams as well as the base.

Attaching the base to the frame isn't really covered in the video. I ended up putting the frame on the ground, then the base on top, and took some care to try and line things up as good as possible. (Here's where I first noticed some of the cuts by Home Depot were slightly off.) I put something like 14 2.5" screws through the base into the frame, evenly spaced, down each of the four 5'9" beams, plus 2 extra screws in each corner. I also put a few along the edge, through the base into the 8' long beams making up the front and back edge. That seems very solid. Flipping the thing back over after this is fun, as by now the beast of a platform is starting to get heavy.

Carpet places in the Bay Area won't just give away scraps or old samples. I was surprised by that. One place let me crawl around in their dumpster and see what I could find. This was unpleasant; some used carpet is plain nasty, and I was concerned about mold and those kinds of issues. I lucked out, and some of the workers pulled up to dump more stuff in the dumpster as I was mucking about in it. They were pretty amused by my little scheme, and helped me out by finding some decent stuff in the lot they were going to dump. I ended up paying nothing for the carpet.

Next, back at home, I decided to use the center well in the platform as a place to cut the carpet. I did buy a new pack of utility blades for $1 -- that's well worth it. Fresh blades makes cutting carpet a snap. This was probably the second biggest time consumption in the project, after drilling and screwing in screws. I cut around 16 pieces of carpet per well that fit nearly exactly in the well.

I cut the spacers at this point. I used a leftover 2'x4' piece of the low grade plywood. I measured parallel lines 2" apart on the wood, and cut 20 2"x2' spacers with a skilsaw. The 2" height on the spacers seemed about right. The skilsaw made this step easy and quick.

For those 20 cross beams in the center of the platform, I started putting them in at each side (by the weight wells), and met in the middle with 2 of the beams touching with no spacer in between. It was just tight enough where I had to hammer in the final spacer, and pressure was perfect to hold things firmly in place while I screwed in all the cross beams using 2 2.5" wood screws at each end of the cross beam. I didn't glue or attach the spacers in any way. I was very happy with how this part turned out. The platform is starting to look finished.

Incidentally, I put in a lot of screws building this thing. It seems this is where the bulk of the time goes on the project. I started the project with this crummy little drill, and would exhaust the rechargeable battery every 10-15 screws I'd drill and screw in with it. After putting up with this for awhile, I finally did a little research and ended up dropping $50 on a new, corded drill that had a keyed chuck. The little drill had a keyless chuck, and the slippage was yet another way this little drill was driving me nuts. (And no, I wouldn't rush the drill, and I did clear the bit several times per hole.) The new drill made a dramatic difference. I would guess I drilled and screwed in over 250 screws. If your drill is not up to the job, then borrow, buy, or rent a decent one. It will make this project go so much faster and easier.

Another thing: a small box of the 1.25" wood screws was sufficient, but one small box of 2.5" wood screws was not. By "small", I mean a 1 lb box. I needed 3 1lb boxes of the 2.5" screws. I literally used every 2.5" screw in those 3 boxes, down to the last one.

I had originally planned on building a simpler 8'x8' platform (just 5 sheets of 4'x8' plywood, no cuts, and the horsemats) before I moved. However, once I started mapping out where things would go, I decided 8x8 was too big. Plus, there was the reverberation issue, which I hadn't noticed before renting the new place. I'd already ordered the horse mats cut to 2'x8'. Cutting these horse mats turned out to be not as bad as I thought. Use a new blade, go slow, firm and steady.

Before putting in the carpet and finishing with the mats and top lifting platform, I decided to move it into the final position. By this point, the platform was very heavy. Moving it was nontrivial. I was too impatient to call anyone over to help. Fortunately, I happened to spot some 1/2" diameter round metal rods in the garage which had been part of some cheap ikea shelf. I used these to easily roll the platform in position, after using a crowbar and 10 and 25 lb plates to jack the platform up. I also took the time to put a front lip or handle on the platform, which I think will make it easier to get under it to lift and move when we inevitably move from this place. I half believe in retrospect, that will turn out to be a pointless addition. I dread the thought of moving this thing to a new house in the years to come.

Once in position, I began loading up the carpet. I didn't use any carpet padding, just carpet. That seemed to be OK. I had a mix of different carpets, and I took care to make sure I put the same things in the left well as I did the right well as I loaded it up. I did load it until the carpet was above the edge, so that when I stood on it, it would compress down to around level with the top of the platform. I think this is important, so that you don't get any sag with a bar sitting on it, and hence change the starting position of the bar from what it should be. I also wonder if, down the road, I'll need to replace the carpet as it gets hammered into dust over time.

Screwing in the horse mats and top section was straightforward, though it was often tricky to find the pilot hole in the rubber after drilling it.

With the platform done, I tried it out using a new set of WFW bumpers. The starting position was good - no sag. The sound dampening was SUPERB. The ability to reduce reverberation was very good, but not perfect. Still, it made it acceptable so that I don't think I'll drive the neighbors crazy.

One thing I wonder about - should the rubber area have been wider, perhaps 2'3" on a side, rather than 2', and the center lifting platform 3'6"? Perhaps that would provide a slightly larger margin of error on a drop. I don't think I've seen a set of home-built platform plans where the center area is less than 4' wide.

That small concern aside, and aside from wishing I'd done all the cuts except plywood myself for greater precision, I'm very happy with the results.

Photos:

Frame and base done


Cross beam closeup


Carpet loading nearly complete


Completed platform

[shaun680]

That looks awesome man, nice job.

[muddy]

Thanks!

After using it a little, I've started to think the drop wells are a little too narrow. It's too easy to hit close to the edge of the rubber, which is supported by a beam rather than on carpet.

Normally that would be fine and dandy, but in my situation where I'm trying to really limit reverb due to how the garage floor is built and the neighbors, it's really not ideal.

So I'm actually thinking of tearing it down a bit, and modifying it so the wells are 2'6" wide instead of 2' wide. It'll be a hassle, but for the long run, I think I'll be happier.

If there's interest, I can post the final modified plans and my take on whether it was worth it.

[Young Athlete]

I think I'm just going to through ply wood up together, then some rubber... seems easy enough to me with some basic know how. Never taken a shop class but that looks really nice.. mine will probably be a little crappier oh well

[Jerzi78]

The 2x4s called for aren't really 2x4, but measure 1.5"x3.5". I suppose they're just generically called 2x4s. It's confusing, because the store had beams measuring both 2"x4" and 1.5"x3.5". 1.5x3.5 is definitely wanted, otherwise the 5'9" length for the beams doesn't make sense.

Just thought I'd give you a little info on this since I was in the building industry. The 2 x 4 actually measures that size when it is rough cut and this is what it refers to before being planed down. It was planed/rounded for easier handling and building codes were changed stating this size was acceptable for strength requirements. It actually measured larger than the 1.5 x 2.5, but still under 2x4 at one time after planing. I can't remember the actual size, but it was used to save money for the lumber companies who still charge the same price for the 2x4. You will still find true 2x4's in stores because a lot of older homes still have them and carpenters would have to rip over sized planks down to actual true 2x4's. It's just easier to ask for a 2x4 then say "I need a 1.5 x 3.5".

[muddy]

I think I'm just going to through ply wood up together, then some rubber... seems easy enough to me with some basic know how. Never taken a shop class but that looks really nice.. mine will probably be a little crappier oh well

That's exactly what I would have done, if I didn't have this issue about my garage/neighbors/reverberations. I'd probably get 5 4'x8' plywood sheets (4 low grade, 1 nicer), a box of 1.25" wood screws, and a bottle of glue. I'd cut 1 sheet of ply into 2 2'x8' pieces, 2 sheets and the nicer sheet into 4'x6' sections. Leave 1 sheet whole. Lay the whole sheet and a 2'x8' section on the floor to make a 6'x8' base. Lay the 2 low grade 4'x6' sections on top to make a second layer. Glue and screw it together. Put your horsemats and top sheet in place, screw it down - done. That would be so much faster to do.

By the way, I got my mats from rubbermats.com. They will make to any size you want, so if you want 2.5'x6' mats instead of 2x6, no problem. The 2 pieces of 2x6 cost just over $100 shipped to California.

Just thought I'd give you a little info on this since I was in the building industry. The 2 x 4 actually measures that size when it is rough cut and this is what it refers to before being planed down. It was planed/rounded for easier handling and building codes were changed stating this size was acceptable for strength requirements. It actually measured larger than the 1.5 x 2.5, but still under 2x4 at one time after planing. I can't remember the actual size, but it was used to save money for the lumber companies who still charge the same price for the 2x4. You will still find true 2x4's in stores because a lot of older homes still have them and carpenters would have to rip over sized planks down to actual true 2x4's. It's just easier to ask for a 2x4 then say "I need a 1.5 x 3.5".

Very cool! I asked several people, and never got a clear answer why this was. It just didn't make a damn bit of sense. Now it does - thanks!

[Jerzi78]

No problem.

I don't know if you had any ideas about how you were going to modify it so you have more clearance for when you drop it, but I'll give ya some ideas.

The drop boxes look to have plenty of clearance on the outer part but not enough by the platform.

Measure from the outer edge of the platform in ( distance from the first 2x4(including spacer) to the edge of the next 2x4). Set your blade height on your circular saw to the thickness of the plywood ( snap a string line from the back to the front or use a guide bar if the saw has one). Saw cut the plywood on both side like this. I don't know how much Glue and screws you used, but a pry bar/ mallet might come in handy, remove the 2x4's that are doubled up at the drop box from the area you just cut on both sides. Remove the spacer on both sides. Take apart the doubled up 2x4's if they are screwed together. Slap one of the 2x4's against the 2x4 that is sitting under the edge of the platform on both sides and screw/glue as needed. Take the remaining 2x4's and put one on each side of the outer box drop areas on the inside so you will ultimately have 3 together.

This should give you over 2 more inches on each side of the drop boxes by the platform. This will also allow you to save any cost of buying new rubber material as it will still fit with the new set up.

Good Luck, let me know what you decide to do.

[Jerzi78]

You could really take it in farther and remove another 2x4 and add a 1x4 (3.5 inches) to try and get a more center center drop well position. I just don't know your comfort level with platform size.

[Jerzi78]

You could really take it in farther and remove another 2x4 and add a 1x4 (3.5 inches) to try and get a more center center drop well position. I just don't know your comfort level with platform size.

make that 3.75"

[muddy]

Cool, thanks for the ideas!

I'm new to power cleans, snatches, etc., so it's tricky to sort out just how narrow a platform would be ok. It seems the ones you can buy online have a lifting platform ranging from 3' to 3.5' wide. Even though I'm on the taller side, I think a 3' wide platform seems ample. The downside is it seems it means more mats. More flooring, I suppose.

Fortunately I didn't glue any of the beams in place. I only glued the double beams together (plus screws) and the base plywood layers together (again, plus screws). So everything should unscrew nicely, minus just the hassle of picking the thing up to get to the screws underneath. I'll post new photos once that's all done, plus maybe my impressions as to whether it was worth it, so maybe someone else looking to build this kind of platform gets something out of it.

If it weren't for the reverb issues, and it was just noise or protecting the bumpers, I would definitely just make a simpler platform though...

[jeffk14]

My platform is 8' wide by 6' deep. It's just a single layer of 3/4" plywood with two 4' X 6' stall mats on top of that. I haven't got my bumper plates yet, but I'm thinking it will hold up just fine. As it is now, I occasionally drop iron weights from about knee-high without problems. My platform is in the basement on a concrete floor.

[Jerzi78]

Cool, thanks for the ideas!
I think a 3' wide platform seems ample. The downside is it seems it means more mats. More flooring, I suppose.
.

Keep us updated on what you do.

Thanks for sharing

[muddy]

Ok, last update on the platform. Again, maybe someone else will find this of use if they're looking to build the same kind I did.

I did decide the center section was too narrow, and so took the trouble to unscrew most of it and rebuild it.

Since I was going to rip the thing mostly apart anyway, I decided to do a few experiments and see if there were other configs that would lessen the physical shaking of a drop. It turns out that if I piled the carpet only about half as high, but packed it a little more tightly, it was almost as good as what I had before. I did try putting a single layer of carpet under ply under a horsemat, but that wasn't quite as good. (Again, this is all dictated by my strange garage situation. If I was in a more normal garage, I'd build a much more straightforward platform.)

Also, I'm tall (6'3"), but it seemed a 3' wide lifting area was sufficient for anything, and provided the best well width at 2'6" each.

So I decided to replace the 8' 1.5"x3.5" beams that served as a leading and trailing edge of the platform with 8' 1.5"x1.5" beams, thus lowering the platform height by 1.5". Instead of the 4 double width 5'9" beams, I used a single 5'9" beam, but laying on its 3.5" side. Same with the spacers under the lifting platform: I simply turned the 5'9" beams on their sides.

To make this modified version of the platform, this would be the list of wood to buy:

4 4'x8' low grade plywood sheets
1 4'x8' higher grade plywood sheet
2 8' 1.5"x1.5" beams
6 12' 1.5"x1.5" beams
2 2'6" x 6' horse mats - ideally the same thickness as the higher grade plywood sheet

Same screws (1 1/4" and 2 1/2" wood screws).

Same cuts for the 4 low grade plywood.
For the 1 higher grade plywood, cut to 3'x6'.
Cut the 12' beams into 12 5'9" as before, but make no double beams.

I'm much happier with the final result this time than before. If someone else is in a situation where either noise or reverberations are an issue, hopefully this will be of some help. If it weren't for my strange garage/neighbor situation, I'd definitely build a more straightforward platform, though.

Here's the new completed frame and base:




And here's the new version, completed:

[Wildster]

Hi,

I know this link is a year old, but would love to hear from the guy who started the link (or anyone else who has made a lifting platform).

Basically I'm wanting to buy a shed to make a home gym, but I cant put the shed on a concrete floor, so I'm thinking of laying some paving stones onto trhe grass and pounding them down, then put the shed onto the base (the shed will have a wooden floor suspended on wooden struts). Basically I want to do some big lifts i.e. around 430 lbs deadlifts etc and not put throught the suspended wooden floor of the shed.

No I don't know if this is possible, and would like to know from someone who has built one of these lifting platforms if they think that one would cushion the dropping of the weights enough to not put through the wooden floor?

Thanks in advance

[muddy]

I don't fully understand how you're going to lay the floor.

I would expect if the floor is well-built enough to support the weight of you + cage + weights, then you could go with a simpler platform: put e.g. 2 pieces of 4'x8' plywood next to each other to make a 8'x8', then lay two pieces on top of those, but rotated 90 degrees (so the long side of the two layers are at right angles). Screw and glue the two layers together. Then ideally place a layer of 3/4" horsemats on top. That should spread the load of a drop nicely, given the floor is otherwise sturdy. And horsemats make a great gym surface. Good traction, easy to clean, doesn't give much so squatting and deadlifting is very stable.